Chiang Mai and Pai

CHIANG MAI

Finally, we have decided to get some culture.

Here a Wat, there a Wat, Everywhere a Wat

This became our Chiang Mai theme song as we wandered from temple to temple. At first it was overwhelming: all the gold and glitter, but soon I started to appreciate the delicate details and the way they came together into something truly magnificent.

Still, I must admit that I was more drawn to the ancient brick stuppas and plain terra-cotta colored gaits.

It wasn't all temples for us in Chiang Mai. We also rented a scooter and checked out the surrounding area.

We found several popular Thai get-aways, including a nice little waterfall with a view of the city below, and a crowded hot-spring where Thais came to relax and unwind.

They don't seem to mind the crowds, though Tino and I

were shocked and a little uncomfortable in the throng. We tried doing as the Thais did, and soaked our feet in the hot river that flowed through the park. We stopped short of buying expensive eggs in little baskets to boil in one of the pools.

PAI

Nestled in the hills, Pai is colder then Chiang Mai, though only at night when the river seems to suck the heat right out of the ground leaving behind a frosty dampness that penetrates to your bones.

Fortunately I just bought a great little down sleeping bag in Bangkok. I LOVE when I think ahead. I don't think I could have survived curled up in my sheet and hammock like I did at the Rainbow Gathering.

Here is our temporary home...

It's nice to get out of the city.

WATERFALLS

Sitting by the waterfall I wonder, does the water want to fall? I watch the way it eddies and folds back on itself before tumbling over the precipice. It clings to the slimy rock, pushing itself back up hill before plunging headlong into the
pool below.

Perhaps it is dare-devil water, out for a cheap thrill, experiencing last minute doubts before letting go with a, "Woo Hoo!!!"

It seems joyful where it comes to rest, spitting out frothy bubbles and showing off its smooth ripples, flirting with the sunlight.

Yes, I think it is dare-devil water. It's cliff-jumping, thrill-seeking, giggling, screaming, fun-loving liquid, and that is why we admire it.

An Unlikely Trekking Guide

People come to Pai for the trekking, but we weren't going to be in town for very long, and we were a bit too cheap (thrifty?) to hire a guide.

It was our first morning, and we set out, guide-less, in search of a waterfall marked on our map with a short red line and a vague arrow. Somewhere it said, "7km hike." We decided it must be 7km round trip due to how short the red line was. Oops.

It was soon obvious that our map was misleading, so we started chatting to the random hikers we met on the trail. Most of their information was as confusing as the map, but we decided there must be more than one waterfall, and stubbornly kept our sights on the legendary three-tier waterfall that was said to lay on a trail that would veer up and away from the river. We finally met up with an elderly couple hiking with a young Thai girl. We thought she must know the route, but unfortunately she too was unfamiliar with the area. As we were chatting with them , we saw a trail that climbed steeply away from the river on our left, and Tino and I decided to give it a go, though the others thought it would be easier to stick to the river.

As we started to climb I noticed that the couple's little poodle-dog had attached itself to my leg. I called down to them, but they yelled back that it wasn't their dog, it had just picked them up when they walked through the village. Fair enough, I thought. We would just hope it followed us back so it would get home safely.

By the time we reached the waterfall, which was spectacular, the dog was a permanent fixture at our side. It was scared of the other group of hikers lounging pool-side, and it wouldn't go more than two feet from us as we sat and ate our meager lunch. We slipped it a few crackers, thinking it must be very hungry. After eating, Tino and I decided to climb up the side of the waterfall to get a good look at the thing. We cheerily splashed across the pool and climbed barefoot up the steep side. After reaching the top of the second tier we turned around to see the silly little dog scrambling up the first tier. It was an easy climb if you used two hands and had reversible thumbs and all that, but for a tiny little dog... I slid back down to where he perched precariously on a ledge, and climbed down past him. He didn't wait for me to turn around and give him a hand, instead he started down after me, slipping and scratching at the cliff. I caught him as he started to fall and tucked him under my arm for the rest of the trip down. He received a hero's welcome from the other hikers, who laughed in wonder at the cheeky little fellow.

Our little guide remained loyal to us the whole way back. He hated the river crossings, which were frequent, and often showed us easier ways to navigate down-stream. As we reached the dirt road that lead back to the village we began to wonder if he would show us where he lived, or if he was going to follow us all the way to our bungalows. We needn't have worried. As we rounded a bend our companion broke into a run and threw himself at the feet of two bigger versions of himself (presumably Mom and Dad). We quietly slipped away, laughing as we imagined the stories he was telling them about his adventure in the jungle.



Motorcycle Madness

We also rented a souped-up scooter for a few days, and toured the winding roads and picturesque villages around Pai.

This is Tino with Ruby Sue, our trusty steed.

And yes, there were more wats.

Some people had more glamorous rides.

And Back Again

All too soon we returned to the city, But Chiang Mai still had some surprises for us.

Which included an absolutely spectacular climbing area. Reunited with old friend Mindy, Tino and I set out for a days climbing, and met new friend John who ended up climbing with Tino and I all day.

Then it was time to say goodbye to Tino. He was heading back to Germany, and I was setting out for new adventures in Lao.